CNT Pattern Sewing Tip: Shearing Fabric
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To Begin

Choose a garment you would like to make. Decide where shearing will be done. Plan color scheme layering solids, stripes and patterned fabric or three layers of the same fabric. Use 100% cotton. Cut three of each garment piece you would like sheared.


Preparing the Garment Pieces

1. Mark Each Piece

Transfer your design markings to WRONG side of one layer of fabric for each garment piece you will shear. Use one of the following methods to mark each piece: dressmaker's tracing paper and wheel, a Hera marker and ruler, a washable pencil and ruler or if your machine has an edge guide attachment, it could be used while sewing instead of marking the fabric.

2. Layer Each Piece

Layer each garment piece as follows: The top layer and the bottom layer will have the right side of the fabric facing up. (Be sure the bottom layer has the transfer markings on it.) The middle layer will have the wrong side of the fabric up. For fabric with an obvious right and wrong side, this step is critical.

3. Machine Baste Edges

Use a large basting stitch and sew around each garment piece to be sheared 1/2" from edge to hold the layers together while working.

4. Stitch

Now the fun begins! Start with the smallest garment piece you will shear. Stitch through all thicknesses, along your stitching lines. Sew from one side of the garment piece across to the other, turn fabric and sew back across the fabric on the next row. Do not worry about making a knot at the end of a row as the ends will be secured when you assemble your garment. (I don't even break the threads. I just sew, turn and go back put on some nice music and enjoy yourself, no doubt you deserve it!) Once all the pieces have been stitched you will get the big reward! But first, remove all of the machine basting from around the edges of each piece.

5. Cut (READ CAREFULLY)

I use long bladed sharp shears for this step. Carefully cut down the middle of each row, (between stitching lines), through the top two layers of fabric. Be careful not to cut the bottom layer. Cut all other sheared garment pieces.


Finishing Up

Cut out the garment pieces and assemble the garment!


The Shear Delight Jacket: Pattern #101
Use madras or cotton prints for a lightweight jacket. Use cotton flannel or a layer of polar fleece with cotton prints to create a heavier garment

To view a larger image of the completed garment, click here.